Out of Seoul

A busy day in Seoul
Next morning I meet Jina at 10am (or perhaps a bit later, cough, that was the plan anyway), we buy kimbaps, basically like Korean sushi, filled with all sorts of things - ours are veg and tuna.


Kimbab being filled up

Then she drives us out to the Korean folk village near Suwon. It's 40-50km away, but takes absolutely hours with the horrendous traffic. There we enjoy a Farmers dance, Traditional wedding, buildings of different styles, and an awful lot of kids. One walking along next to us asks her mother "Mum, why are there so many foreigners here?"


This chewy dried squid is not chewy enough, allow me..


There go my teeth


Round they go


Impressive acrobatics


But silly hats


Get used to this pose in Korea


Making traditional sauces, some of which take years


The bride is helped

Lunch...


Kimchi pancake


Nosh. Soft beancurd and others

We visit Jina's Dad briefly in hospital, then go for food in Chuo market. Actually we have Korean "fast food", i.e. tteokbokki (rice cakes in a spicy red sauce) and odeng (processed seafood on a stick).


What exactly is this stuff?


Street food, spicy and tasty

Next day, I meet Yumi late morning and we walk around Sincheon before going for bbq for lunch, tasty as always, sitting cross-legged on a heated floor, but she takes me over to Namsan, the hill with the N'Seoul Tower at the top, the closest Seoul has to an "icon" - it looks a bit like Toronto's CNN tower! A bus ride up (would have been a nice walk but we're a bit pushed for time), and we head up top for the panoramic view. Round above the windows various world cities are listed together with the distances.


The tower from below


Awwwwww


Yumi


Looking down over the city from the N'Seoul Tower


Admiring the view

Next I rush off to Jongak to meet Eunjeong's friend, Sarom. She's brought her friend along, Bu Song, and together we wander up Insadong, passing some traditional dancing displays by children. We have the usual battle of the gifts, with me pleading for Sarom not to buy me anything as I'll have to carry it!! Together we eat a traditional bibimbap, then wander round the boutique shops in.. Ssamziegil. We then break into Citybank, Bu song's office, via the open back door, and she drives us all to Incheon. This is the port not far from Seoul, which has big container ships heading all over the world, especially to China which is across the West, or Yellow Sea.


Beautiful traditional dancing in Insadong


Sarom and her friend Bu Song


Sarom


Some guys get all the luck


Ssamziegil Shopping Area

We meet Fong, Bu Song's boyfriend, and drive around Chinatown, for which Incheon is famous, then Jayu (Freedom) park, which has a statue of General MacArthur. Fong explains the history of it all to me, but keeps forgetting that I'm not American. I periodically point this out. Near here is where General MacArthur landed with 70,000 troops in a daring raid into North Korean territory which paid off, and within months the North Koreans were retreating. We head down to Wolmido, the seafront, where young couples fire firewoks off the promenade. Sarom asks me whether I've been to the Maldives. Not yet. Good, as we're going there now, a bar on the seafront, for some beers. We pass restaurants where people try to beckon us in. Sarom tells me they're called Bikkees. No thanks Bikkee!


Enjoying a beer in the Maldives

Next day I brunch with Yumi overlooking Cheonggyecheon river, before pottering about town - visiting Jamsil and the Seokchon Lakes


Discrete but pleasant Doulos Hotel


Pretty Seokchon Lake


Quack quack


Almost spooky

Then over to City Hall, a view many will recognise from when the Football World Cup was staged here - this is the big square which was filled with Koreans wearing red (the "Red Devils") to support the home side.


Ridiculous statement


City Hall


The ubiquitous Samsung


A replica of the famous observatory in Gyeongjo, made out of car headlamps! Interesting!

In Jongok I meet Jina and friends, and after a mini gift-war, we go for Korean bbq (Bulgogi) in Insadong.


Kimchi


Within seconds the meat goes from this..


To this.. Delicious!

Followed by a visit to the bar at the top of Jongno Tower for Jazz and drinks with a view. They have bottles of Alta Vista wine from Mendoza, which Jina and I have had before, so we go for that. It's not cheap, but no problem, we've agreed that I'll pay for this in return for everything else. After the third bottle though, I suddenly discover that Jina has PAID! It makes me so angry! Their solution to make me happy? Order more that I can pay for. NOT THE POINT.


The Altavista flowed freely


Jina's friends


UFOs spotted over central Seoul


Unusually elegant pose

After I meet Yumi again after she finishes work at 2am! Zzzzz!


Yumi stamping out tunes on Piano Street

Sokcho


Early start to check out, and a bus for me to Sokcho on the East coast. I wanted to train it, use my pass, but it's a lot longer journey as the train is very indirect. It's raining in Seoul, but I figure as I'm heading across the mountains to the other side, hopefully it will be better there. Wrong! The bus is bloody hot - what is the Korean obsession with always being roasting hot. I wonder whether they've just come out of a cold snap and no one has turned the heating off yet. I suspect this is always the case though - it's strange to sit in a restaurant eating very spicy food, on a floor which is so hot that one's backside is almost burnt! The bus is so hot I am sweating! Not nice. I arrive, and it's raining here too, not good for a beach resort. I stay in the Samsung (not the same one you know) motel, looks like the Kremlin, or perhaps Disneyland, has landed on the roof. Room is nice and hot, just the way I like it.


Quiet and miserable-looking in the rain, Sokcho Beach

Out, and I wander along the beach with my umbrella. We are fairly close to the border with North Korea here, and this shows in that all along the beach there is barbed wire, control towers, and big floodlights which light up the place at night. Apparently spies from North Korea still periodically show up. It was also around here that North Korea invaded during the Korean war. They've also caught a couple of submarines, which you can visit from here. The beach, with its course sand and closed stalls is deserted, and feels lonely.

It doesn't come fresher..

Lots of fishing going on

I walk along towards the port, which has a famous seafood market where one can eat sashimi. Strolling alongside the stalls, I don't get the same level of hassle as the locals, but I am intimidated by what's on offer. Every stall has several buckets and pots with a variety of things swimming around. Some are fish, some are urchins, or octopuses, pulling themselves into another bucket before getting thrown back by an old lady wearing rubber gloves and wellies. Then there are the "unidentified" objects. There are red things that look like fruit - I've subsequently been told they are sea squirts. Then… what on earth are the things that look a bit like a worm, the size of human intestines, that are moving, or wriggling, and opening and closing an "ending" which doesn't seem to have eyes! I don't know, but there's only one way to find out - eat it raw!!!


The street of terror

Most places as usual serve meals for 2 or 4 people. I reach the end and haven't found anywhere (alright, I was looking for a restaurant serving Italian food!), so I turn around and head back, bracing myself. I pick somewhere looks friendly, and ask for sashimi. Of course it causes a stir, a Westerner asking for this stuff. In fact I haven't seen any foreigners since leaving Seoul! They all gather round, and the chap uses a thing like a frying-pan sieve to pull out a flat fish, I think he said it was a Crown fish? He tells me the price is 50,000 won, about 27UKP, quite pricy. I hesitate, then he explains that this price is for a "package", and starts scooping up all manner of other things. I agree to the deal.


First blood


Don't worry, you're next


Sea urchin

The package is the crown fish, a smaller fish - mackerel?, a sea urchin, a sea-cucumber, a sea squirt (?!), and a squid. Within seconds it's thrown on a chopping board and the knives are out. I watch with fascination and horror as the butchering begins. These ladies obviously have done this before. I'm beckoned inside, and take my place on the baking-hot floor, cross-legged. First out is the sea-urchin, which I've had before in Japanese food. All good. Then comes a plate of "stuff". This is the sea cucumber, squirt and squid. I'm just about to pick up a piece of squid when a tentacle curles itself out of the lettuce leaves and tries to wrap itself around the chopstick. DUDE!!!!


Stuff. A fair bit of it on the move

My policy on food is that it has to be dead. Not "in the final throwsXXX of death". Dead. Not moving. I'm not eating things that are still wrigging. I prod other bits. They respond. Duuuude. I look at the other bits. Sea cucumber. Some bits move, some bits don't. I pick up a dead bit, and chomp through it. How have the other tables managed to avoid this issue, they all seem to have regular fish sashimi, and broths and things. I turn my attention to the squirt. This looks roughly like, well, a pile of tomato with eyeballs in it. But it's not moving, so I have a go. You know how when you chew something you really don't want to eat, you sort of chew using your teeth, keeping it off your tongue? Anyway, it could be worse. I poke the sea cucumber. Still here, good.


The full platter

Just then, the main sashimi plate comes out with lots of fish. Good, we have reached a safe harbour. I tuck in. It's good, very good. I've got spicy sauce, wasabe and soy, and the Korean satay sauce with lettuce to wrap stuff up in. I leave the tentacles to die and enjoy the sashimi. The flat fish is good, the smaller one slightly better flavour but has bones, which is a bit of a pain. I need help here, so ask for soju, which is the Korean vodka. The lady brings out a bottle and shot-sized paper cup. Few swigs of that for strength, then back to the task in hand. At this point I notice that whilst the fish flesh is not moving, per se, the smaller fish' flesh is.. how to describe? Quivering? Bubbling? Perhaps it's just reacting with air. Do fish twitch? I decide not to think about it, or look too closely.

In the end I finish all the fish, a fair bit of the squid, even trying a tentacle once they'd stopped moving, but a fair bit of the sea cucumber was wriggling right to till the end. I rise up, letting my backside cool off finally, and go to pay. The lady throws in the soju for free, which is nice. I wander back to my hotel happy. Nearby I find a stall serving safe-looking buns, containing glassy noodles and pork. Comfort food. Good, good. Dead! I hit the sack and let my stomach do the rest :)

Seoul, Brother

Next morning Su Hwan asks me if I would like breakfast. Sure I say, only to walk down into a full So family dinner! All cross-legged around the table, with Mum and Dad and Su Hwan. I wasn't expecting this, and as am feeling a bit hung over, find this rather stressful! But what a breakfast! A feast! I wish I'd taken photos, but I'm never sure when it would be rude to take pictures.


Self-repairs


A couple of jackets

Eunjeong's Mum wasn't sure what to serve me, so she decided it would be all of Eunjeong's favourites.. Kimchi chige, Kim with black rice, Kalche grilled fish, Tubu egg omelette, Snails (I think), various side dishes, all washed down with tea, then just when I thought it was finished, the yoghurt with strawberry came out. How delicious! Afterwards Su Hwan and I head out, I have a secret plan to return some of their kindness by printing photos of Eunjeong, and also picking up any other gifts I can find that are appropriate.


Art


Emperor pose


Slurp

When it comes to pay for the prints at the E.Mart Supermarket, I have to battle Su Hwan off from paying for this too, then only very reluctantly does he let me buy a nice bottle of wine from Mendoza. Just when I think the tide is turning, he springs a gift from him to me, some ginseng red bean jelly to give me strength on my travels!


Dad

Back home, I give the wine to Mr So, then he goes out, and leaves Su Hwan and I to eat lunch.


Not cooking, more.. reheating!

He then drops me at the station. What an experience it's been, they've all been so kind to me, and my only regret is that I didn't get to say goodbye to Mrs So! I'll have to pop back later :)



To Seoul
Arriving in Seoul, you imagine what countryside people think the first time they roll up - big towers in all directions, must be quite intimidating. Down to the subway, I take a train to Jongno 3 (sam) -ga. I worry that the sam bit implies it's a different station, but later learn that Sam means 3. Out into a busy street junction and I look for the hotel. After a couple of minutes of gawping and wondering why there are no maps about (even the "street maps" in the tube exits only label about 2 streets, how useful is that?!). I spot the hotel.. It's roughly in the middle of a city block, but there are no main roads going into this area. Strange. I wander through alleyways heading to where I thought it was, but as soon as I duck into the alleys I can't see it, and can't find it! So frustrating! Don't forget I've got full pack on back, reasonably heavy day-pack on front, and it's hot. I'm getting stressed.

Out after a full circuit of the block it's back to square one next to the tube station. I can see it again. Finally, by moving a bit at a time, and rechecking where it is, I arrive to find what is a really quite nice hotel given its location. All around it are small dark alleys on one side and love motels on the other, and the reason I missed it is that it sits slightly back on its plot, so until you're literally standing in the doorway, you can't see it! I'm hot and sweaty but never mind, I go out to look for a book store to buy LP. My need is great!

There are a few big bookshops several blocks from here, including the biggest, Kyobo, which surely must have it? First try, Youngpoong sold out - as it is a new edition which has just come out. My friend Jina who I met originally on the Navimag ferry in Patagonia turns up and takes me over the road to Bandi and Luni's after my Green Tea latte (c.f. frapp and wait two years for the UK to catch up!) who stock it. Jina lends me a book called KOREA - Unmasked, which is a fairly lengthy cartoon book explaining the Korean race, mentality and culture by Won-bok Rhie, who is one of Korea's most famous cartoonists. We head up Insadong, a traditional shopping area which has been well-preserved (even the Starbucks there has written its shopfront name in Korean) and go to a small but boisterous restaurant owned by a female climber, where we order an entire plate of muscles and some beer.


What shall we have then?


I don't mind, I'll try anything


Okay then, take THAT!



Meeting Yumi

So far away… London 8882km.

Next day, my first full in Seoul. I head up to everyone's first recommendation, the Gyeongbok Palace, which was the country's principle royal residence until being destroyed in the Imjin Waeran war with Japan, not by the Japanese, but by locals, angry that their leaders deserted them at first sign of trouble. It lay unused for three hundred years until being rebuilt in 1865. The palace is not so far away from my hotel, so I walk, past the large futuristic Jongno Tower, and facing the tower across the road, the Bell Pavilion, which contains an old temple bell, an interesting juxtaposition. Arriving at the palace I stumble upon the changing of the guards. They are uniformly tall with small wispy beards. I like the look. It's very colourful, with lots of flags and primary colours.


Hordes of kids besieged the palace




The makings of a fine wispy beard



Inside the temple there isn't much to see, apart from hordes of kids, but it's a big place, and one could wander the grounds for several hours, if one felt the inclination.





I head to the corner of the site where there is a Folk Museum, which recreates Joseon life, and is fairly interesting.


These statues typically guard the entrance to a village




Happy Moai

Out, and I plan to head back towards my hotel until I stumble upon a sign for the Chicken Art Gallery. Surely this is a joke? Apparently not!




The buddhist lantern festival is coming soon.

I notice signs for a Silk Road museum, and follow these for a while, the signs displaying how many metres till the museum, until about 200m before when they just stop! Where's the damn museum!!



I can't find it, and can only assume that I've passed it and it's not before?? Where! Anyway, the area I've stumbled into, Bukchon, is very nice, and from this hillside spot I see two military helicopters coming into the Prime Minister's residence, could be the big (small?!) man himself!





After, I stumble across a "Hello Seoul" festival event, but it's noisy and not really interesting. Through Insadong, which is too busy, and Dongdaemun market, which is big and potentially useful, but not so interesting if you're not buying anything.



Apparently night time is when to return, as it's all lit up, and all the eateries are full of people. Eating in Korea is a very multi-person activity. All dishes are designed to be shared. On my own, I pass restaurants which look interesting, but feel a bit sad. In fact LP says that certain restaurants do not allow single eaters. Behind the market is an interesting part of Seoul - Cheonggyecheon Stream.



Two years ago this was a large concrete road, with a small polluted stream underneath. There was some opposition to the plan, some thought that it would create congestion (perhaps "add to the.." is the right way to put it!). What they've done is remove the concrete, clean the stream up, plant trees and flowers, and now it's a lovely thoroughfare along which people walk, hopping across at points on stepping stones, and enjoying the weirs and flows.



Jina's dad is a bit poorly tonight, so I'm on my own. I contemplate going to bed early, but hey, can't do that. Out to the Platinum Microbrew pub in the South, in Gangnam. It's a multifloor building including an eat as much as you like steakhouse, but I head downstairs to the pub, and am seated in front of a strange polar scene. All fairly couply, so I turn my attention to the beers, which are fairly good.



I try their Malt, white, house and pilsner beers, accompanied with a portion of spicy sesame beef, and later some nachos, which are made up fresh. I read through my LP and annotate, noting the recommended dog restaurant, as one not to visit! Next over to Sinchon, which has lots of bars and clubs, being in between several large Universities, Hongik, Ehwa Women's and others. Here there's a Jazz Club called Blue Note that I want to find. Not easy with LP's excellent directions, but in the end I do.

In, it's quiet, but I chat with the beautiful waitress Yumi, who is studying interior design, and came to Seoul 2 years ago from Daejeon. Also next to me is a Japanese guy called Hiro who is learning Korean. I show the owner his entry in LP - he hasn't seen it before (new issue just out this month), and is so happy! He goes round the bar showing everyone, then borrows my book and wanders off to show his rival bar-owner friends! I'm happy too of course :)


Yumi in pink

Eunjeong's Family

As my travel plans are being made up as I go along, I've turned up in Daegu, the hometown of my friend Eunjeong, without really letting her family know I'm coming. So I buy a phonecard and call them. It's a difficult conversation, but I convey that I'm at the station, and I think they're coming to get me. I'm aware that I'm lacking in the presents department, having only some Muji tea I picked up in Shimonoseki, but before I have a chance to get anything else, Eunjeong's brother, Su Hwan arrives! I hope I'll be able to pick up some things later.

He drives me to a shopping centre, where we head upstairs to an office where I meet Kim Sung Sun, Eunjeong's mother. I hand over the tea and feel inadequate, but they all seem very nice. We go together for lunch of kalbe, a Korean bbq, with hungjongshi, which is, errr, other stuff. Su Hwan asks me if I want pork, as he points at the meat. Okay I say, so he calls the waitress and receive a fork. Of course, Korean chopsticks are the toughest to use - they're thin metal as opposed to anything with any grip, and not being round they tend to clip together awkwardly. This wouldn't matter if I had proper chopstick technique, but I tend to scissor - I know how to do the proper style, just prefer mine.

So as usual, there is the painful moment as everyone watches the Westerner pick up the first piece of food with chopsticks. I've chosen a thing a bit like a potato-cake, coated with a sweet and quite spicy sauce. Of course I almost drop it as I bring it up to my mouth, so bite prematurely and smother red chilli sauce all round my mouth. All part of the fun. As Eunjeong had taught me before, in Korea it's very important that you don't pour your own drinks - one should use two hands to pour the bottle and always look after others, which I try to do. Also two hands holding your glass for receiving it.

In general I'm on full-scale social test mode, so am carefully watching my opponents over the table, studying their every move and learning. One thing that I'm severely disadvantaged over is that this is the old sit down on floor cross-legged table - basically extremely uncomfortable if you're not used to it. I try not to shuffle too much as I attempt to keep blood flowing beyond my knees. Anyway, that all said, the food is great, spicy but in the best fashion, and I'm proud to have no issues despite Eunjeong's mother saying she thought it was quite spicy.

As we leave the restaurant, I notice that our shoes, which one takes off on entering, have all been turned 180 degrees for our convenience. Cute touch. I offer to pay but don't expect to get away with it. Little do I realise as we leave that this is the tip of the ice-berg. The war of kindness has begun with its opening salvoes over the bay of generosity! Next we grab a coffee, and again, no chance of paying.

Back to the office, and a few photos in the wedding area. This is the family business. To my untrained eye, it looks extremely kitsch, but that's probably the Asian way. With a few touches of a remote control, the large neon hearts light up, and we take our matrimonial shot!


What a sweet couple!

After out again, to meet Su Hwan's girlfriend, Jung-min, as she wants to buy some books, something we have in common. We go to Kyobo bookstore, which is a chain from Seoul, and a quite big shop. They have a large section of LP guides, on almost every country in the world, in English… but .. this being Korea and all.. no Korea guide! I pick up a Korean phrasebook instead, or rather Jung-min buys it for me. Yes, I had it wrenched out of my hands as I approached the till. This is going to be an issue!

We enjoy a hotbar - a cheesy thing on a stick as we wander the dongsung- ro, or downtown area. Daegu is relatively small compared with Seoul, which makes the centre walkable. The roads on the other hand, are terrible. I don't know who town-planned the place, but they need to be shot. To go from A to B always involves half a dozen U-turns, all sorts of junctions and plenty of cutting across multi-lane roads of traffic, all of which Su Hwan seems to relish.

We head to the family house. It's above some seafood restaurants, and is a largish two-story flat at the top of the building, gated with a large ornate metal door and frame in black. Most things are downstairs, shower, the parents' rooms etc, but Eunjeong and Su-hwan's rooms upstairs, along with a small patio garden. Su-hwan is giving me his room to stay in, which is very nice of him. I jump in the shower and of course wet the whole room. I wonder if this is bad form in Korean culture. No helping it though.

Next I meet Dad, with me feeling terrible as I have no gifts despite staying here. Out, pick up Jung-min then head towards Palgongsan mountain area at the edge of Daegu, where we're going to a special restaurant serving Samgetan - a very healthy dish of chicken boiled with congee.




The lovely Su Hwan and Jung-min

As it's so healthy, they give you a pot of salt to dip the chicken in, and surround it by spicy side dishes. We have a minari - a spicy Korean salad, tongdongju - rice milk water alcohol which doesn't feel strong but may be. Will find out later.


I'm feeling hungry just writing this blog looking at these photos!


Jung-min looks after us


As the boys enjoy!

It's interesting how the whole table rules work in Korea. Alpha male always pays. If you've invited several of your junior colleagues out to dinner, you will pay, no debate. If your boss then turns up mid-dinner, this responsibility switches to him. Seniority in age or position all count to making you top of the pile. As a foreigner, I'm not sure where I fit in, but I gather it's fairly low - I'm not allowed to pay for anything here, something which makes me feel a bit uncomfortable to be honest. Alpha female round the table tends to look after the group - keeping an eye on the meat on the bbq, or spooning out things. More of this as I experience it :)

After we go together to a bar, the Bubble bar. It's loud hip hop, which we don't realise until too late, and no one is there. A couple of beers later we head out then split. My first experiences of Korean beer are Hite beer, the standard - I've even tried this in London with Eunjeong, and Cafre beer - which has a (to me) somewhat unpleasant burnt taste. Each to his own. It's been a fun evening…

Spicy KOREA - Land of the Morning Calm

Before coming here, honestly, what did I know about Korea?

* Rapid growth of economy, but didn't realise how rapid. Samsung, Hyundai, Daewoo (Daewho?!)
* Korean war - relatively recent, US something to do with it
* Football World cup and Olympics
* Delicious and spicy food
* Beautiful girls
* Tough characters
* Seoul, Busan and Daegu Cities
* Periodic mass-marriages, as there would be a photo in the London Metro every so often!

Not that much really. I hadn't a clue what Seoul was like, or a single landmark to expect. And I don't have a guidebook. So, should be interesting...

Kampu Ferry
My plan for leaving Japan is to take a ferry from one of the ports in the south, Hakata, where I'm staying, or Shimonoseki, the choice being dictated primarily by which day the ferries run on. It turns out to be Shimonoseki, a short train ride away. In fact it's just 19 minutes on Shinkansen and another 10 on a "rocal" train, but I feel the absence of my JR Pass - it costs about 10UKP! The port itself is famous for a shopping centre there, hardly gripping stuff, and there's a good fish market, though when I arrive I discover this is a decent distance away and I'm not in the mood for too much pottering about with my full pack on.

It feels a bit run down and dodgy, as all good ports should. I take advantage of the presumably rarely-used mens toilets on one of the women's clothing floors of Daimaru department store, and as my bowels are playing up slightly, I make good use of the electronic shower capabilities of the loo! The roof garden has a.. view.. over the surrounding area, then I find a bookshop, as I'm in dire need of a guidebook, ideally LP, for Korea. Given that this is a port terminal which pretty much exists because of the ferry traffic to Korea, do you think it would be unreasonable to have guidebooks of the place. Yes apparently it would be. Several copies of Winnie the Pooh though. Oh well, I settle down in Starbucks for a wait of a few hours, Green Tea Frapp to while away the hours.

Later I fold and treat myself to another Vie de France visit, though I'm quite good, having a salad and green tea in addition to a (cough) okay some pastries! Comfort food. Finally the hour of boarding approaches, so I head back up to the terminal. It would appear that there are about 500 old Korean women on the boat. Is this some Saga Korea holiday favourite route? Strangely hardly a grey hair in sight. Anyway, the only other non-Orientals are a Dutch couple, whom I get chat to. They sound even more disorganised than me - they turned up to Japan without a JR Pass, a mortal sin. However they do have LP Korea, so one up on me there.

On to the boat and up to my cabin. I've gone for a first class cabin - the 2nd class is basically lying on a tatami mat in a room with about 20 other people, which I've done for the Beppu - Matsuyama ferry before, fun experience but I'd rather have a bed thank you very much. However, I'm not sure based on jumbled conversations buying the ticket whether I'm in with one, three or no other people. Turns out none, I have a double bunk all to myself., marvellous. I take advantage by hopping in my private shower then hitting bed ultra-early.


Ferry to Korea


Well-used hose

Boat, which for your information weighs 16,000 tonnes, is 160m long, has 8 decks and accommodates 500 passengers (I was right about how many old Korean ladies there were on-board), sets sail at 7:30pm. There are restaurant and bar facilities, but I'm just taking advantage of my bed. Dutch couple call me at 8pm and ask me if I want to go to dinner. I have to confess about already being in bed. How anti-social!


Gulp


Ahhhh bed

I sleep very well with the gentle rolling of the ship, and wake quite early feeling refreshed. Still a few hours till we disembark at 8:30am. However what do they start doing at 6am? Waffling away on the ship PA system, in Korean and Japanese! I'm not sure what they're saying, but it might be something about breakfast being served in the diner. 2 1/2 hours before we come in! Surely they could have saved the noise till 7 or 7:30am?

Off, and through Korean immigration and customs without too much pain, though I did enjoy being quite deliberately pushed and shoved almost all the way down the gangplank by very small old ladies! Apparently when I return I may get a grilling, as this route is the cheapest route off Korea or Japan, so is frequently used for "visa runs" by those operating off tourist visas and working illegally. Incidentally there are much faster services that do this crossing - there's a hydrocat called the Beetle2 which takes about 3 hours to cross. It's more expensive though, and by taking the ship I save getting a night's accommodation, plus arrive with a full day ahead of me.

The tourist information lady is very helpful in managing to get me cash out of one of the two ATMs that are in the arrival hall. They're identical, both Busan Bank, but only the left hand one works for foreign cards. The right one goes through all the motions but spits out a rejection slip at the last hurdle. Of course! Then it's off to find LP Korea then head up to Daegu (this plan is very much being made up as I go along). I use the coins that Garam gave me on Easter Island to buy my first subway ticket (about 70p), along to Nampo-dong shopping area, whee there is allegedly a bookshop. There is, but it's closed, as is everything else in the area at 9:30am. I decide I don't particularly want to wait potentially a couple of hours in the area, so head off to the main station.

Incidentally, I'm obviously back on "just arrived in new country" security mode. I went to buy the second tube ticket, didn't have change, and only had 10k notes. The machine only accepted 1,000 notes. At that very moment, an old chap wandered past and offered to give me change. Out comes the wallet, and he counts out 1,000 notes. For background info, there appear to be old and new notes in circulation here, different colours etc, and I have no idea what a fake would look like! Anyway, he counts out.. exactly 10 1,000 notes. An alarm bell rings. If he had 9 and made the rest up with coins, I would have probably gone for it. Having exactly 10 seemed very suspicious. I explained myself away saying I needed to go to the shop anyway, so thanks but no thanks. Afterwards thinking back, it was probably fine. I generally get the feeling that Korea is fairly safe. Not as much so as Japan, where one could leave one's wallet in the middle of the Piccadilly Circus equivalent and have it returned to you, but still, fairly safe.

There does seem to be a lot less English about than Japan, especially signage.


Well I know they're all hot, that's a start..

One explanation for this (which I've just invented) is that Korean doesn't ever need to use English words. It is said to be one of the purest languages, this is because it was created specifically as a language (rather than evolving), using the scientific principles as to how languages should be formed at the time (1400s I think). Thus using a small number of symbols, it can create almost any sound (contrast with, say, Japanese where there's no distinction between R and L, hence "EngRish"). It also means they can write any English phrase using Korean characters and read it out loud correctly. So no need for those vital clues, like shop opening times in Japan, that help one navigate these countries.

At the main station, I exchange my rail pass. It's a much easier process in Korea as you can apply for the pass online, and hence in theory whilst in Korea. Then hop on the next train up to Daegu, after another fruitless search for LP in the station bookshop. The chap offers me an English Atlas of the world. Helpful, but no thanks. As we get on the train the lady looking after our carriage bows and says hello. The trains are based on French TGVs. Periodically the train flashes up its speed on the TV screens. 299.7km/hour. KTX is supposed to be the world's 5th high-speed railway (presume this refers to order of construction). It's not the Shinkansen, but it's nice nevertheless. Although it has to be said their on-board cappuccino is a grevious insult to the Italian concept.

More soon on Korean food and the wonderful hospitality of Korean people, plus their obsession with being hot at all times!