Thursday, October 25, 2007

Gorgeous Cape Town

At Cape Town, a crowd of girls is waiting for me.


I reckon that’s the cup in that box on his right

I ignore them, collect my bags, and head out to my pickup. As we drive into Cape Town, past the famous Table Mountain which is covered in cloud at the moment (they call it the Table Cloth!), you can immediately feel the difference in atmosphere between here and Jo’berg.


The mountain shrouded in cloud

There aren’t crazy 15 ft high electric fences, no armed security guards everywhere. The driver explains it saying that Cape Towners are just more laid back, and there’s not so much wealth envy here. There are still big slums though, so I’m not going to immediately drop my guard.

The hostel is nice, and there are plenty of people about too. I’m staying at the Zebra Crossing. My room is nice, but still shared bathroom. I head out down Long Street for a wander.

Long Street
Long Street appears to be one of the more trendy parts of town, full of bars, cafes and restaurants all full of character (compared with the malls that tend to be full of chains).


Long Street Baths


Wrought iron buildings


Lewis’ recommended Mama Africa


Long Street


One of several mosques in the city


Music


Art deco and crazy colours


Very Barbican

Waterfront
The Victoria and Albert Waterfront is a recent development facing the Atlantic, around a harbour which still operates out of the Alfred and Victoria Basins (1860). Apparently you can see seals splashing around too, though I wasn’t lucky in this respect.


Looking back from Waterfront to the city


Boats being maintained


Expensive flats going up around the still active harbour


The clocktower


Gorgeous colours as the sun gets low


Waterside snacks


The clock


Ah ha!


The Paulaner Brewhouse


Happiness


Quayside


Cranes as the sun sets


Walking back in the dark

In general, Cape Town feels safe. I’m still not completely relaxed, there are a fair few people about who ask for money as you walk past, sometimes following you along the street. There are lots of people in fluorescent jackets on street corners, I can’t quite work out whether they are security people, parking attendants, or a mix of both. Either way, it’s good to have them about.

Passport Shocker
I wake up to a nice view from my room in the Zebra Crossing hostel:





So today I need to renew my passport. The SA visa takes up half a page, so I now have a page and a half free. Mozambique is a full page. I need a new passport! No problem, there’s a consulate here in Cape Town, I’ve checked it out, so this morning after a cup of tea I walk down there, pausing on the way to get some passport photos. The embassy is on the 15th floor of an office building in downtown. Once there, there’s no queue, but the woman tells me firstly that my photo is not acceptable as a lock of hair is curling round on my forehead, apparently “obscuring” my face?! And more importantly, she tells me the lead time is 8-10 weeks. WEEKS?! The lead time quoted on the Foreign office website is 10 days. WEEKS? Are you sure? Yes.

I can’t believe it. I ask her if they are sending them to another country to process? No, only to Pretoria. Why so long? I asked the British Embassy in Burma, and they told me because of the delay of sending the applications to Bangkok it would take 10 days. Here they’re processing them locally and it takes 10 weeks. How preposterous – the Foreign Office should be ashamed that they have such an appalling turnaround time for what is essentially just printing out a page with a couple of lines of information, laminating it, and sewing it into a small burgundy book. I’m not even applying for a first passport, there’s no information to be verified. It’s pathetic really, and throws my travel plans somewhat.




The library



A bit of research on the internet and an email later, I find that Botswana are doing them in 10 days. That’s the answer, rather than the flights back to Asia which I’ve been looking at (300 quid from Cathay). At a bookshop, I pick up the recently published Africa LP book (rather than the Shoestring guide). This will help me work out what I’m doing for the next few months. My vague plan is something like SA to Botswana to Mozambique to Malawi to Namibia to Tanzania. Something like that. Watch this space, I will only be able to plan more once I’ve spent half a week in the net café getting my China blog finished, groan!





In the evening I stay in, blogging still as Cape Town gets absolutely battered by gale force winds. Don’t think the Cable Car will be in operation up to the top of Table Mountain now!

What a year!

The British Airways flight I’m about to board, from Johannesburg to Cape Town, is the last flight of my RTW ticket, exactly one year on. Last year on October 20th, I left London, and flew via Dubai to Mauritius, where on the 23rd, I started my RTW ticket. It ends today, on 23rd October 2007. In this last year I’ve visited Africa, Europe, South America, Oceania, and Asia, and I’ve loved every minute of it. I’ve taken 64 separate flights (just counted them), countless buses, trains, motorbikes, bicycles, tuktuks, parachutes, boats and walked a fair bit too, met many people, seen wonderful things, and learnt so much about the cultures and history of the world.

In the film Bladerunner, there’s a scene where the final replicant chap is about to die. He talks about the things he’s seen, beautiful moments across the universe, and how sad it is that all those memories will die with him, lost like teardrops in the rain. Better to have those experiences though - to have love and lost. Am I bored of travelling? Certainly not. Do I feel like I’m searching for something, and haven’t found it yet? No, every day is a new day, with new people, new cultures. It’s tiring, but worthwhile. Now, furthermore, I’ve just arrived in a whole new continent, Africa, and I’m back to square one. Can I do this forever? No, the money dwindles, the dream has to come to an end, I will need to work at some point soon!

My provisional idea currently is that I will travel overland through Africa back to Europe, coming back to England in March. I’d also like to loop round Sub-Saharan Africa back to South Africa, then look to be crew on a boat heading back to the UK via the Atlantic, ideally popping in to visit Vince, my old boss, on St. Helena for a quick beverage. Either way, there’s a couple of months left to go yet in the old traveller (30 next year, gulp)! I also have to get to Petrus in Jordan somehow, so I can cover off all seven Wonders of the World!

What will I do after this? Well apart from getting back to reality, I think I’ll start visiting England more. I’ve seen so much of the world, and yet so little of my own dear home, still the most beautiful country in the world to me. That said, I’m sure it won’t be long before I’m back cursing my way through Heathrow bound for a foreign land! I think it’s going to take a family to tie me down, or perhaps it will be a family that will take me away. We shall see…

A new continent: Africa, starting with Johannesburg

Aside – India’s Resilient Economy according to McKinsey
Apparently, according to a McKinsey study written about in Newsweek, India’s economy is much more resilient than China’s in the event of a global economic slowdown because rather than profiting from exports, they have been driven by domestic demand. The article says the Indian weakness in not being able to challenge the Chinese manufacturing juggernaut has become a strength, relatively high costs of borrowing (c.f. China’s often near-zero rates) mean that no one has invested in infrastructure! Hurrah! Their lower rates of investment relative to GDP have meant greater consumption. Conversely, their reasonable saving rates have meant people putting away their earnings (I’m sure this statement doesn’t apply to 99% of people living below the breadline), compared with China where rates have driven people into high-yield and risky investments.

However! I don’t agree with the general surmise of the article, which is, to interpret it in another way, because India’s money has been filling the pockets of the upper echelons of society only, they will not be affected by a downturn in exports because they don’t have capabilities in this field. The article suggests that India may invest in manufacturing and become the China of today. Not if the global downtown the article predicts occurs. Plus if India hasn’t invested in manufacturing until now, why would they change? The poverty gap in China has been reduced massively in the last ten years according to a recent UN study (1/3 in 1990 down to 10% today). I’d be very interested to see equivalent numbers for India. China is surging ahead because they aren’t just investing in private jets and high-rise condos for the few, they are building a country which has the infrastructure to continue to continue to own the world.

The services industry took off in India faster because of language skills there. All other considerations are stacked against the country – I know having been involved in my former company’s offshore setup project - even in the most developed areas one can expect power to be out 30% of the day, and the two carriers provide such unreliable connections that in addition to having multiple redundant lines coming into your building, it’s best to have satellite and microwave backups too for when the inevitable happens. When your CEO arrives at the filthy cramped airport (Delhi, Mumbai) and catches a taxi that is 50 years old with holes in the floor along the dirt tracks that run through Delhi and Gurgeon, will he still be thinking “this is a place to do business”? As Stu said a couple of years ago, just watch when China moves into the service industry.

Of course, this won’t be a problem for the upper echelons of India’s society, who have pocketed all the cash from today and are mobile – moving to the US or UK when they realise that the third world country they have been uninterested in developing is still just that – third world. The way to change this of course is to improve relations between China and India such that China starts buying India for the mineral resources like they are doing for the rest of the world!

As a footnote, what are the top stories for the two countries respectively at this very moment? China: Congress has set Hu Jintao’s priorities to write environmental concerns into their legislative charters. India: The Deputy Prime Minister of Delhi has died after being attacked by a gang on monkeys on the street.

HKG to JNB with Cathay
The flight is okay. We don’t have true flat beds, as Cathay don’t switch to 747s until next week, dammit! It’s fairly full in Business Class, but the staff are very good. I watch Su Zhou River on my laptop, then try to write my blog, which sends me immediately to sleep (you thought it was just you, dear reader?!). We arrive and I step off the plane almost to the second, how do Cathay do it?! Johannesburg airport is modern, and the black people everywhere makes me feel like I’m home in London!

At immigration, the lady asks me how long I will stay here. I’m not sure to be honest, perhaps 2 months?! She gives me a three month stamp. One blank page left in my passport. I’ll try to renew it here. Coming out, my taxi man doesn’t seem to be here, so I have time to use the ATM before he appears, and drives me in his Merc to my hostel. It’s not cheap to taxi to and fro the airport, but given the talk about Jo’berg being dangerous, and me not knowing what I’m doing, I thought it was the sensible thing to do.

As we drive along, the chap tells me the names of places, many English – Hyde Park, Croydon etc! Finally he arrives at the Africa’s Zoo Lodge, and beeps his horn at the large gate.


The Zoo Lodge

After a minute, some eyes look out of a small peep-hole, then the gate opens. I meet the boss Bushy, Alfred, Judith and everyone else. Alfred takes me to my small but fine room, with its soft bed, then gives me a tour of the hostel. It has an inside living room and bar room with pool table. Kitchen, then at the back a pool with garden and second bar.



Bushy tells me that they’re planning to have a braai (barbeque) in the evening out back. Great!

I wander out to the left to Dunkeld shopping mall for meat and booze. The security in this area is ridiculous, with all places boasting high gates, electric fences, barbed wire, signs advertising armed response protection, all of this makes me feel far more nervous than I would otherwise.



At the butchers I pick up some lazy aged spiced sirloin, and some spicy sausage wore (boerewore). For booze, they’re selling Windhoek lager in 24 bottle packs, though I worry that my pack will break with the weight!

There’s a rasta bloke on corner, we talk briefly, and he tells me people call him Rasfabulous. He’s selling green Springbok tops, which are flying off as people pull up in cars and buy them. Previously regarded as white only, with blacks following football, rugby has become more unified, and it seems like the whole country is behind the team.

Interestingly, one of the main ways of travelling about in Jo’berg, or Jozi as it’s known locally, is by small minibuses which seem to ply all main routes, and are always full of people. Now, the way to hail these buses is not simple. They’re not labelled, and don’t have a fixed stop, and yelling in Zulu will not get you anywhere. You wait at a junction, and hold out your hand, displaying some sort of fingered sign depending on where you want to go. Apparently there are about 60 different signs, and the same sign can mean different things on different routes or even different sides of the road! Apparently the only universally-understood symbol is to “go local”, when one rolls the hand into a fist, points it down at the ground with your index finger. This means you want to go just down the road!

Next I walk down the road to the other way, to the Rosebank shopping mall. Some of the streets are beautiful, lined with Jacaranda trees adorned with purple flowers.



Rosebank is a big place, one of the larger malls in the city. First I pop into a mobile shop and pick up a local sim. Then lunch at Mung and Bean, an enormous tasty panini with a cappuccino.

After lunch, I find the internet café called Milky Way. They seem to have an ultra-fast connection which is great. As I use the net, I realise I have the time zone wrong. I thought we were on GMT here but we seem to be 2 hours ahead. On my way back to the hostel, I plan to go to the supermarket, but it’s shut already, damn. Back at the hostel, I help to carry a large TV through to the bar at the back in the garden. Bushy tunes it in. We’re ready!



The BBQ provides a large bowl of tasty meat. This combined with bread, beans, maize, salad makes for a tasty dinner.



The match is okay, a bit frustrating in terms of the ping pong and lack of tries (apart from England’s unfairly disallowed one!), but of course the result a disappointment. I go to bed rather than watch the awarding of the cup.



There’s a load of noise in the middle of the night, some kind of argument with some troublesome guests I think.

After a lazy start, I give my laundry to Bushy to do, as I haven’t much he does mine with someone else’s, saving some cash. I make a toasted sandwich and work on the blog. They offer me lunch, more bbq meat with veges and salad, very nice. I get to try the worl sausage. Later I head out to Rosebank. I’m too late for the supermarket again (it’s Sunday), so head to the internet café for my daily fix. I lose track of time, and it’s dark when I leave. I pick up a pizza to take home. Whilst I wait, I read the security section of LP. It says that Johannesburg is the most dangerous city in South Africa. I have a 20 minute walk home. Gulp.

To be honest, I was feeling very nervous. Especially as the moment I walked out of the mall, a chap came up to me begging. I walked on, feeling very vulnerable and exposed. The street lights were out along the road back to the hostel. When I finally got back, and pressed the buzzer, I prayed for them to open the doors as soon as possible and let me in!



Having a drink in the bar, a couple of the local guys talk. One says on the corner just along this road he saw someone shot in the leg and robbed. No demands, just a bullet in the leg then the request.

This is the morning the Springboks come home. So I’m going to the airport to meet them. Well not really, it’s my last flight of my Round the World trip, and there are 15 beefy blokes dressed in green flying 12 hours to celebrate with me! 23rd October 2006 I took my first flight of the ticket, from Mauritius to London. 23rd October 2007 I’m flying Jo’berg to Cape Town, 12:45pm departure with British Airways aka Comair. The end of a magical year. What next? Who knows. A new passport, that’s for starters – I have one blank page left in this one, issued in 2006.

It takes a while to check in as the girl doesn’t seem to understand that I’ve changed the flight time on my paper ticket. I don’t take advantage of the gun check-in.


Couldn’t make it up

The BA Terraces lounge is a bit disappointing too, without free wifi and crap coffee. Does the job though, and I watch King of the Hill, ignoring the half of the SA team who are sitting about signing autographs. We have Schalk Burger on our flight, along with Jake White, the coach, who has a large metal briefcase which is suspiciously cup-sized. I wonder why that wasn’t checked in...

I’m hoping Cape Town is going to be easier than Jo’berg. I’ve spent three days in Jo’berg and seen nothing but the Zoo Lodge Hostel and Rosebank shopping mall. Last night I went to meet Travis, a friend of Thuzar’s, in Nelson Mandela Square next to Sandton Mall, which is another characterless venue. I’m sure there are nice places in Johannesburg, but they’re going to be in areas that I’m being strongly recommended not to go to. Even going to the airport involves taking a bus into Park Station, apparently dangerous and a mugging black spot, then busing back out. I take an expensive cab.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Back in Hong Kong

At Hong Kong, I nod approvingly as the Immigration Officer squeezes the HK stamps into an improbably small gap on one of my passport pages, then hop on the Airport Express train into town. 100HK$, about seven pounds, rather expensive unless pitted against the exorbitant Heathrow Express train. At least this train works and runs to schedule.

I dump my stuff at Hostel.HK aka Budget Hostel (on Hostelworld), a cheap (20 pounds a night) hostel which is fantastically located in Causeway Bay, then head straight out to Lam Kwai Fong, the pub street in Central. I’m meeting up with Giles, a school friend who I haven’t seen since, err, school.

My suggestion for meeting point was the British pub the Pickled Pelican, which is actually just above LKF on Wyndham Street. Giles is already there, nursing his first Guinness.


Young Barford has changed not a jot!

I order a Greene King IPA. They don’t have any. Ruddles County? Out too. Abbott? No more left. I almost walk out there and then! They have Spitfire, otherwise I would have to relegate this place to the same bucket that the George was dumped into after one visit – “So called British pub without British beer”. Not an accolade.

So Spitfire it is. It’s great to catch up with Giles, who rejigged his flights so he could meet up with Leo and myself. Plenty of beer has passed under the ridge by the time Leo joins us. The atmosphere is great, but that might be to do with the rolling footage of the Rugby World Cup semi-final  Giles finally has to leave, and Leo and I are left with just a couple more beers before heading out to meet his friends, Felix and Queenie in a Japanese restaurant.


We have a head-start on Leo


Why does this always happen after 9 Spitfires?

It’s an old-friend gathering before Queenie gets married in a week, so when they move on to a bar, I split off, dump my stuff at my flat and head out to Wanchai. My plan was to go to another English pub, the White Stag, with Moby Dick, but as they were belting out loud dance music, I switched to a coffee shop and then a Chinese pub imitation called, erm, something like the Horse and Hounds. Too noisy, and I kept falling asleep. Time to go to bed.

On the way back , I curse myself for leaving the bag which I actually left in my room in the bar. I turn back, walk for 10 minutes before it suddenly dawns on me. Punished for stupidity!

Next morning, after a brief bit of essentials shopping, I meet Leo and we go for Sichuan food, my new favourite Chinese variation!


Famous..


for this..

Leo orders several dishes, including diced chicken with chillis, spicy oily tofu, a spicy soup almost satay-like, and finally, to maintain the pretence of healthy living, a pile of lettuce.


No time to waste


Eating this

After eating, we head over to a new shopping centre above Kowloon, supposedly one of HK’s biggest. We find a café which has an incredible offering. Not since I found Peking Lamb in Oxford have I been this impressed. Ladies and Gentlemen, I present.. the Cappuccino Bruleé!


The cappuccino bruleé

Yes, it’s a cappa, but with a sprinkling of sugar flamed. It looks bad, but it works!


Good bye dearest

I go back, grab bags, and head over to the airport. Tracy’s agreed to meet up. Last time I was horrendously late. This time I’m a couple of minutes early, and Tracy is a few minutes late. Fair enough. Before she arrives, a popstar chap walks in surrounded by about 30 teenage girls holding cameras in his face. Tracy suspiciously turns up a minute after he goes.


The lovely Tracy

Tracy takes me a to a Korean restaurant in the other terminal. We order bbq, which is very tasty, and comes with the full compliment of side dishes.


Barbeque and side dishes

It’s a real challenge getting Tracy to eat much.


Happy Eating!

Last time she gave me some Imodium tablets for India. This time an Egyptian bookmark, a more positive present!


See you in HK airport next time!

It's time for my flight to Africa! A whole new continent, and one I've never really visited (Morocco and Egypt don't really count). First stop - Johannesburg, which is the crime capital of the continent by all accounts. Wish me luck!